I am not sure I know anyone who does not like chocolate. And if I do I wonder if I can trust them.
In cooking with chocolate there are so many choices these days and the smart people at America’s Test Kitchen have come up with some nice information to help us navigate the chocolate choices to produce the best results in our recipes.
Companies use the names cacao and cocoa interchangeably, but in general, when there is more cacao in the chocolate, there is less sugar, and bittersweet chocolate tends to be less sweet and have more cacao than semisweet. Even darker chocolates, with higher cacao percentages, will be correspondingly less sweet (100 percent cacao chocolate is completely unsweetened). Any number of variables-the type of bean, where it’s grown, and when it’s harvested; the length and conditions of fermentation; the roasting and grinding methods; and the quality and quantity of any additives (such as vanilla)—can contribute to differences in flavor and texture. Chocolate makers claim that every detail is critical-and are loath to share too many specifics.
We’d heard a lot about the type of cacao bean being extremely important. There are only three types. The most prized (and expensive) bean, the criollo, grown mainly in the Caribbean and Central America, makes up less than 2 percent of the world’s cacao. Most chocolate is made from forastero beans, generally from Africa. These beans are harvested from hardier trees, which makes them cheaper. The third, trinitario, is a hybrid of the other two beans and comprises about 5 percent of the total harvest.
But if you are like me you want to know what works best in cooking and why. They go on to discuss their various experiments and taste tests and what they found was that the lower cost from the impressive line up of chocolate and lower fat was actually better.
So would the chocolate with the most cocoa butter make the biggest splash, bringing richer, extra-creamy flavor to your desserts? No. In fact, our lab results revealed that the chocolate with the lowest fat won the day, while the one with the most fat came in dead last. And would having the most cocoa solids make a chocolate superior? Again, no. Our tasters preferred chocolates with only a moderate amount. Sweetness wasn’t the explanation, either: Chocolates in the middle range of sugar levels were preferred over those with the most sugar, though overall the top half of the rankings had more sugar than the bottom half.
In the end, we preferred dark chocolate that achieved the best balance of all three major components-cocoa butter, cocoa solids, and sugar. Callebaut Intense Dark Chocolate L-60-40NV was favored for its rich chocolate flavor, moderate sugar and cocoa solids, and comparatively low fat. Tasters appreciated its “intensely chocolaty,” “rich,” “espresso” flavor and “caramel aftertaste.” It excelled in every application. San Francisco-based Ghirardelli’s Bittersweet Chocolate Baking Bar came in a close second, with praise for its “smoky,” “fruity” notes. It also demonstrated that balanced chocolate flavor derived from moderate levels of sugar, cocoa solids, and cocoa butter.
Additionally they discuss what we should use in cooking
In a recipe specifying a bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, can you substitute a chocolate with a higher cacao percentage than the 60 percent generally used for cooking, making no other adjustments? Not if you expect identical results. We tasted brownies and pots de crème made with our two top-ranked dark chocolates, by Callebaut and Ghirardelli, which have 60 percent cacao, alongside ones made with the same brands’ 70 percent cacao offerings. While all four versions were acceptable, tasters strongly preferred the 60 percent cacao chocolates in these recipes, complaining of the 70 percent versions’ dryness and lack of sweetness (and in the case of the pots de crème, a thicker, stiffer consistency), although some tasters noted their “deeper” chocolate flavor. When chocolate manufacturers increase cacao content, they correspondingly decrease the amount of sugar and usually add less cocoa butter. With less sugar and fat, it’s no wonder the results were distinctly different.
Just goes to prove that cooking and more so baking is chemistry and just adjusting the fat and sugar ratio of an ingredient can have a big effect on the recipes outcome.
The Test Kitchens recommendations for dark chocolate include a brand I have not see at the stores called Callebaut. You can check out all their recommendations for an interesting read and discussion on dark chocolate.
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